POSSIBLY the simplest construction for a frame cabin is the board-and-batten type (or shiplap, as shown) because less framing is required, the upright boards carrying the load in place of studs. The con­crete slab floor also eliminates much car­penter work and lumber expense, and has the advantage of offering no refuge for rodents underneath.

Originally a single room, 16x22 ft., with front porch and open carport in back, two corners of the cabin were partitioned off with plywood for bath and kitchen, re­spectively. The second year the carport was floored and enclosed for a bedroom; a second bedroom was extended from  the front porch the third year. A back porch, screened in. had been built on earlier.

To save yourself the labor of grading, select a level site and drive stakes at the four corners, then set up batter boards two feet from them, to which chalk lines are to be tied. The intersections of these should be directly above the stakes, located by a plumb line. Now excavate four inches on each side of the footing-to-be. For a wood floor the footing shown will be substantial enough for this light cabin. Oil the form boards on the inside and they can be used later for flooring to be covered with lino­leum.

Home on the range in semi-desert Southern California country. Guns are   kept   loaded   for   rattlesnakes.	Setting   up  forms  for  the   footings.  Oil  boards   to be used. These may later be utilized as flooring.
	Measuring   window   area   for   framing   and   sills. These windows swing inward for easy screening.
	Simple approach to roofing was also used. Roll roofing is not only in­expensive but very easy to install.

Rent a concrete mixer. The mix should be one part Portland cement, two of sharp, clean sand and three of gravel, with water for a mushy but not watery consistency. The job should be completed in one day and left in the forms two or three days, kept moist with wet burlap or canvas. Before the concrete sets, put in anchor bolts, five feet or so apart. For a slab floor, the ground between the footings should be leveled, wet down thoroughly and tamped before pouring.

In conventional practice the walls should be made individually, flat on the ground and erected after the floor has been laid. A 2x6-in. sill is anchor-bolted all around to the footing, and floor joists set up on these, toenailed. and supported in the cen­ter on a 4x8-in. timber which in turn rests on flat stones or concrete piles spaced about six feet apart. Install X-bridging between the joists above the timber.

Diagonal braces are installed as illus­trated, and tie-beams should be nailed to every second pair of rafters at the plate. Rafters should be notched here. Note opening in end wall frame for fire­place and plywood partitions for kitchen and bath at other end. The cabin in the photograph has shiplap instead of board and-batten, but construction is the same. In the latter, however, battens should be nailed only on one side to allow for any contraction of boards in very dry weather.

Plywood for bath enclosed kitchen area has matching area on opposite side. Note built-in bunk beds.

Are You Ready To Move Onto The Next Lesson? Click Here...