Chapter 9

The Rustic

Twin gabled extensions create a cozy observation platform overlooking the water without destroying the view from the picture window behind.

A few steps lead to the front porch enclosed by a painted wood railing. Bedrooms are on either side.

Interior is adaptable to a wide variety of finishes. Tungseal wood sealer gives a natural clear surface.

RUSTIC, indeed, is this Ward Cabin-designed and built for Mrs. Deloris Bridges—wife of the honorable Senator. Featuring double, gabled extensions, these wings create a cozy closed-in effect for front porch relaxing—without affecting the straight-on picture window vista.

The Rustic measures 44 ft. across, 26 ft. 4 in. down the sides. The extra-large living room area is 22 ft. deep, 19 ft. 9 in. wide. Plenty of room here for that large, open fireplace you've been dreaming about! In addition to the front door to the porch—a rear door is provided in this room for easy access to your future patio.

The master bedroom measures 12x14 ft. with two closets taking up part of this space —but providing a very interesting window area in return.
The second bedroom, featuring an identi­cal closet arrangement, is 12 ft. wide and 13 ft. deep. A third bedroom—containing dou­ble bunks—measures an adequate 12x6 ft. The  master bedroom,  the  bath  and  the bunk room are connected by a short, pri­vate hallway.

After subfloor is laid the walls are added. Wait until roof is up before putting in hardwood floor.	Raising the heavy log purlins is the most diffi­cult   problem.   We   suggest   you   rent   a   derrick.

The large, airy kitchen (12x13 ft. 2 in.) contains a good-sized pantry and an extra service entrance to the rear of the cabin.
For general construction details of this type of cabin, read The John Alden. page 38, and The Six-Shooter, page 32. At this point, however, we can add a few more details.

When the building is closed in entirely, the hardwood finished floor can be put in. This is a conventional construction and we needn't say much about it except that you will save yourself a lot of time and work if you can rent a floor nailing machine. Now lay out partitions by chalking lines on the finished flooring. It need not conform ex­actly to the drawings in laying out parti­tions as long as you do not increase the total lineal feet of partitions. However, where a partition under a tie beam is shown, it must remain there as it provides strength. Partitions not under tie beamsbut under ceiling joists, should have a dou­ble joist immediately above them. When the lines are definitely established, nail quarter round along them and plumb up to the above support. Now place partitions, driving them together permanently.

All vertical plank partitions are kiln-dried and are given a shop-applied dip treatment with a surface sealer. Be sure to take into consideration your door placement. The door may be placed anywhere in the partition, merely by rip­ping a piece of partition stock, if necessary, and placing the door frame as shown on the detailed plans. One inch quarter round trim is then applied to all corners, wall and ceiling joints, floor and wall joints. In­cluded with the unit is rough trim for doors and windows. Using finishing nails, apply trim to inside of frames. Joints should be butted together. Since the trim is only peeled and not uniform in size, mitered joints will not meet flush.

Little sawing is required for Ward Cabins since logs are precut. Here notch for light switch is being cut.	Ceilings may be paneled or even plastered. Wall­paper might be used to cover one ceiling as shown.

Ceiling joists may be left exposed, with sheetrock laid over them to be finished with paint or paper.	Owner decorated one wall of master bedroom with wallpaper and used a natural finish on the rest.

As far as construction goes (see the John Alden and the Six-Shooter), that just about finishes the cabin. Plumbing, heating and electrical services are standard and are best installed by contractors. (In many locali­ties, it is a legal necessity to have these utilities installed by licensed contractors.) A particularly adaptable type of heating for this type of cabin is the radiant, base­board type.

Finishing the house is no special prob­lem. The logs require no finish and will, in time, turn a beautiful silver-gray if left alone. Or, if you wish, the exterior may be stained in any color that appeals to you. As a final finish, the house should be sprayed with log cabin oil, a log oil that will provide a lustrous finish and protec­tion that will not darken after exposure to the weather. The interior, too, is adaptable to a wide variety of finishes. An excellent natural finish is attained by using Tung-seal, a wood sealer that provides a clear, satin surface. If you prefer a blighter fin­ish,  varnish is suitable but will  darken.

There are also on the market now several excellent color finishes available in virtu­ally any color you choose. They enhance the appearance of the wood but in no way detract from the natural beauty of the grain since they are stains, not paint. As an alternative, you may wish to wallpaper one or more of the walls in the house (or ceil­ings for that matter). In this case it is a simple matter to apply plasterboard, ma-sonite or plaster to the wood, and apply the paper over this. It can always be removed since the original pine wall is still there.

As for the ceilings, there are a number of possibilities. Sheetrock may be laid over the ceiling joists and either painted or papered. You may also apply wood panel­ing, either plywood or planks, over the joist, being careful, of course, that the wood selected is compatible with the rest of the room. Still another alternative would be to leave out the rough ceiling joists and put in 2x6-in. studs on which a plaster, sheet­rock, or wood ceiling can  be applied.

From another angle the driveway may be seen at the rear of the cabin. Note stone barbecue to the left.

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